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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.